Mame Kurogouchi RTW Fall 2021

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Nocturnal windows, moonlight and shadows inspired the feminine collection Maiko Kurogouchi presented for fall.

The look: Kurogouchi created a fine, sophisticated balance between bold, graphic lines and delicate organic details in the garments that are less for home lounging than for going out and exploring the world.

Quote of note: “I continue to get my inspiration from windows, and this time I focus on the shadow created by [them] and the moonlight,” said Kurogouchi, referring to the effect created by blinds in her bedroom. “I saw a stripe on the wall… and a bent stripe on the sofa. I also realized I was attracted to the evening sun… light gradually dissolving into the darkness. So for this collection I decided to [use] a traditional Japanese technique [Itajime Shibori] to express the strength of the striped shadow. This is one of the oldest dying techniques, and mostly used for kimonos. I always find beauty in my daily life.”

Mame Kurogouchi RTW Fall 2021

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Standout pieces: She deftly juxtaposed dark lines and grids with colorful prints comprised of natural motifs, such as flowers, made by hand in a factory in Kyoto specialized in marble prints. An oversized, flowing jacket with swirling forms in beige and orange overlays a long dress with black-and-white stripes. An ankle-length orange-and-black dress with a high collar has intricate, almost vegetal patterns and gives a trompe-l’oeil effect of shadows. One shirt appears webbed, with bands of black bleeding out fanlike from a rounded neck, paired with light gray trousers.

Takeaway: Kurogouchi masterfully takes poetic inspirations – “It seems like a journey to the moon,” she says – and transposes them into well-ground contemporary fashions with dreamy airs.

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